Photo by Adam Sawyer
If you’re looking for an unconventional adventure this summer, take the family up to the Ape Caves for a little spelunking. The Ape Caves were formed about 2,000 years ago when basaltic lava came pouring out of Mount St. Helens. As the flow proceeded, the surface cooled, forming a crust. The lava underneath the crust continued moving through the tube for months. When the eruption finally ceased, it left a 13,042-foot lava tube undisturbed and undiscovered until 1947.
The cave is now a popular destination for hikers and sightseers. There are two routes to explore from the cave’s main entrance. The lower cave provides a two-mile round trip, 200-foot-elevation-gain, out-and-back hike. The floor of the lower cave is composed primarily of volcanic ash and is easy to negotiate—a good route if you just want a taste of cave dwelling. The upper cave is a rugged three-mile, 400-foot-elevation-gain, loop hike. The first 1.5 miles of this option are spent in the cave before hikers climb out of a small hole near the end and return to a traditional hiking path. Hikers must navigate 27 boulder piles and climb an eight-foot-high lava falls in the process. This route requires patience and scrambling ability. You’ll get a good sampling of what you’re in for within the first couple minutes of this route.
Photo by Adam Sawyer
Hiking through a lava tube is a truly unique experience. The cave is massive and wide open, which makes it somewhat less intimidating for claustrophobic visitors. One of the great things about the Ape Caves is that folks can choose their level of adventure. Most casual hikers and small children will have no trouble exploring the lower cave, with its level, well-graded floor. Hikers and older kids looking for a challenge will find one in the upper cave.
Exploring the caves requires special preparation. All visitors should bring:
• Three sources of light – Clean-burning lanterns (propane or white gas), or flashlights with strong batteries and bright bulbs.
• Sturdy shoes/boots – The lava tube floor is uneven and covered with jagged rocks.
• Warm clothing – The temperature remains near 42ºF/6ºC year-round. It can also be windy and wet in the lava tube.
From Portland, take I-5 North to Exit 21. Travel east on Highway 503 and USFS Road 90, approximately 35.7 miles to the junction of USFS Roads 83 and 90. Turn left onto USFS Road 83 and proceed another 2 miles to the junction of USFS Roads 83 and 8303. Turn left onto USFS Road 8303 and proceed another mile on USFS Road 8303 to parking lot of lower entrance to Ape Cave.
—Adam Sawyer
Photo by Adam Sawyer
